In the kingdom of Pinot Meunier, in Crouttes sur Marne, halfway between Reims and Paris, the vines from Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz have thoroughly become biodynamic, since 2009. Over a few years, Jérôme Diaz became the preacher of this philosophy which glows through his sharp cuvées. Would you like to taste them?
Back to basics
In his youth, Jérôme Diaz didn’t want to work at the domain. He used to help his parents in the vineyard, but it bored him. He wanted to work in the trade and ended up in an industrial supply company in Niort. But when his mother began « to produce her own bottles » as he says, with the grapes of the domain, like the prodigal child, he came back, stung by curiosity. He then began to train to become viticulturist-oenologist. Since 2001 he has taken up the reins of the domain. As he admits, his first vintage was a crash-test: « It was dreadful; the musts struggled to reach 8.5°”. Two figures of the industry helped him to find his way, or rather his backroad: René Duclos, a wine merchant from Val d’Oise, who features mainly small producers and has a solid reputation as organizer of an established winegrowers’ fair in Groslay. The latter encouraged Jérôme Diaz to push his approach further. So he began to learn about organic viticulture; by discovering the teachings of Pierre Masson, specialist in biodynamics in France. He got caught up in the game and decided to give it a try. Biodynamic bear gradually its fruit. Jérôme Diaz became a convinced biodynamist, winemaker-gardener and poet when he has time. His work is like an ode to nature and its mysteries (take a look at his website).
Viticulture and winemaking: from the earth to the moon
The proportion of the different grape varieties at Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz is particular: 3.5 hectares of Pinot Meunier, 2 hectares of Pinot Noir and one hectare of Chardonnay. The clayey-limestone soil of the Marne valley is dominated by Pinot Meunier. In 2015, the domain received the Demeter certifications, assuring that no fertilizers or pesticides are poured on the vines which are on average 35 years old. In the cellar, chemical yeasts and synthetic sulfur are forbidden. A traditional Coquard press is used, which allows a long and soft pressing. The harvest is vinified for 35% in oak barrels. By adopting a biodynamic approach, you take advantage of the possible synergies between the different elements that constitute the cosmos. You create an alchemy based on ancestral traditions, and in particular following the lunar calendar. At the same time when you live in the vineyards, you can’t help but preserving nature which offers us its calm and silent panorama. For Jérôme Diaz, using conventional methods is like opting for the easy way. In spite of the meteorological disappointments, the winemaker stays focused, transforming the grape juice into a flow of emotions. With his seven hectares of vines, Jérôme Diaz shapes a new kind of Champagne. Discover the qualitative production, full of character, of a rising star from Champagne.
Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz: cuvées
Cuvée M, emblematic cuvée
This champagne is a 100% Pinot Meunier, from several plots. The nose expresses intense aromas of red fruits that you can also find on the palate among bergamot and white fruit (apple, pear) notes. It is relatively vinous, with a saline finish. The remarkable freshness guarantees the fine balance of this cuvée, in a straight and precise style.
Cuvée N, gastronomic cuvée
The cuvée N from Champagne Bourgeois-Diaz is a Blanc de Noirs without dosage composed mainly of Pinot Noir, supplemented with Pinot Meunier. This champagne has a powerful black fruit bouquet with an ample and fine texture on the palate at the same time. A beautiful champagne for gastronomy!
Cuvée 3C, classic cuvée
The Cuvée Trois Cépages (in English, 3 grape types) is, as the name suggests, a blend of the three main Champagne grape varieties, with a majority of Pinot Meunier. It is vinified for one third in oak barrels and dosed at 2g/L. It boats a white and citrus fruit bouquet. The palate is taut and fresh, offering a very aromatic body that draws to candied lemon, smoked and even sap notes. Elegant in spite of fairly big bubbles, the finish has a pleasant bitterness.
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