The exceptional Côte de Nuits, Musigny Blanc from Comte Georges de Voguë has been declassified for 22 years from the 1993 to the 2015 vintage as the vines were considered too young for the quality of the iconic appellation.
Musigny is an exception in the world of the grands crus from the Côte de Nuits. Totalling 10.77 hectares, it produces some of the most delicate wines of Burgundy. Its unique character can be notably explained by the higher content of red limestone in its sub-soil.
The owners of Musigny include very iconic producers such as domaines Roumier, Mugnier or Comte de Vogüé. The latter built its reputation on this grand cru, being the largest owner with 7.2 hectares. It is also the only one who perpetuates the tradition of producing a white wine in the appellation. Musigny is the only grand cru from Côte de Nuits to allow Chardonnay in its decree of appellation. Comte de Vogüe is probably one of the most meticulous and demanding producers. He refuses to classify as grand crus any wine made from vines less than 25 years old. François Millet, technical director explains: “Why 25 years? This is the necessary time for a vine to really express the beauty and character of its terroir”.
So when the 0.66 hectares of Musigny blanc needed to be replanted, the domaine decided to declassify all its production to let enough time for the vines to age and reach their highest quality levels. 1993 was the last vintage that produced a Musigny blanc. Following vintages were produced as simple Bourgogne Blanc. Indeed Chambolle-Musigny doesn’t allow the production of white wines in its appellation.
As domaine de Vogüé only produces white wine in Musigny, sharp connoisseurs including several bidders on iDealwine knew the quality of the Bourgogne Blanc produced from 1994 to 2014 and the prices have risen consequently. However they still remain way cheaper than the equivalent grand cru. François Millet explained: “Legally we could have calle dit grand cru earlier and we would have sold very well but we needed to be absolutely sure of the complexity and quality of the wine to keep our reputation high. We are talking about Musigny, and the quality needed to be as high as for the reds.” .
“It is an ethical question, respecting our customers, the appellation and the history of the domaine. Musigny blanc is the only white grand cru in Côte de Nuits and this implies a lot of responsibility”
2015 will thus be the first vintage after 22 years without Musigny blanc. Only 2,277 bottles have been produced.
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