While you may be familiar with Bordeaux red wines, how much do you know about the region’s whites? Well, the fact is that Bordeaux produces both dry and sweet white wines, some of which are exceptional, such as those from the 2021 vintage. Despite challenging weather conditions that disrupted grape production, this vintage produced some magnificent bottles.
Bordeaux is the most famous winegrowing region in the world and the region’s wines are the most widely consumed in France. The appellation covers some 118,000 hectares and yet, white wines only account for 10% of the region’s production, which means that they have a certain rarity about them…
The main Bordeaux appellations producing white wine
- Pessac-Léognan: A versatile appellation owing to its climate, which is suitable to the production of both white and red grape varieties. Some châteaux are classes as Grands Crus Classés for red and white wine. Around 250 hectares are planted with white grape varieties. Château Haut-Brion, a Graves Cru Classé and also the only Grand Cru Classé 1855 in the appellation, is probably the best known.
- Graves and Graves Supérieurs: The only French appellation to bear the name of its terroir, Graves. Here, you’ll find both dry and sweet white wines.
- Sauternes: This appellation undoubtedly produces some of the finest sweet wines on Earth. The appellation’s unique microclimate is home to ‘noble rot’, the famous botrytis cinerea fungus that makes Sauternes so distinctive. The most iconic estate in this appellation is Château d’Yquem, the only Premier Cru Classé Supérieur in the 1855 classification.
- Barsac: A total of 464 hectares of white grape varieties grow around the commune of Barsac. As with Sauternes, the microclimate favours the development of botrytis. While it is frequently overlooked for its famous neighbouring region, Barsac offers exceptional sweet wines, which often prove fresher and more mineral. Château Doisy Daëne is one of the most sought-after references in the appellation.
- Cérons: This appellation is blessed with a perfect terroir for viticulture and produces both red and white wines. Out of the appellation’s 1,000 hectares of vines, 555 are planted with white grape varieties.
- Sainte-Croix-Du-Mont: The 700 hectares of vines in this area produce fine sweet wines which are slightly less streamlined and more affordable than those of neighbouring appellations.
- Loupiac: This appellation, very similar to the Sainte-Crois-Du-Mont, produces sweet wines with an excellent reputation. The vines cover around 400 hectares along the Garonne river.
- Premières-Côtes-De-Bordeaux: Situated in the Entre-Deux-Mers region, where only white wine is made, Premières-Côtes-De-Bordeaux produces sweet white wines with a minimum residual sugar content of four grams per litre. A total of 1,800 hectares produce this white wine.
- Côtes de Bordeaux Saint-Macaire: A little over 600 hectares produce sweet white wines. This is one of Bordeaux’s most southerly appellations.
- Graves de Vayres: An appellation famous for its reds, which also produce white wines. Dry or sweet, Graves de Vayres offers a wide choice. This area lies on the edge of Libourne.
- Entre-Deux-Mers: This is Bordeaux’s best-known region for dry white wines, as production here is very high. Some 1,500 hectares fall under the PDO designation, producing fruity, elegant whites. Located between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers – hence its name referencing the fact that it lies between two bodies of water – the Entre-Deux-Mers offers finely crafted whites at affordable prices.
And let’s not forget the Blaye and Bourg appellations.
Bordeaux white grape varieties:
- Semillon: This grape variety accounts for 5% of Bordeaux vines. Primarily cultivated in the Sauternes and Entre-Deux-Mers regions for the production of sweet and dessert wines, this variety is harvested after noble rot has attacked the grapes which go on to produce botrytized sweet wines or without noble rot to produce dry wines. Its aromas main aromas are lemon, apricot, fig and honey.
- Sauvignon Blanc: This variety accounts for the same proportion as Semillon, representing 5% of Bordeaux’s vines. It’s the grape variety of choice for the region’s dry white wines. It produces wines with excellent acidity and freshness, and delivers aromas of lemon, almond and cut grass.
- Muscadelle: Widely used in dry and sweet white wine blends, it is uncommon to come across bottles made with 100% Muscadelle. This grape variety offers aromas of honeysuckle, acacia and pineapple.
- Colombard: Only 1% of the Bordeaux vineyard is planted with this grape variety, which is used in blends. It mainly flourishes in the Bourg and Blaye regions and is known for its floral and hesperidian aromas.
- Merlot Blanc: This variety is a natural crossing of the Bordeaux wine grape Merlot and the Cognac grape Folle blanche. It is used to produce fairly neutral wines and accounts for 0.2% of white Bordeaux vines.
- Sauvignon Gris: This clonal mutation of the Sauvignon Blanc grape variety produces powerful wines. When fully ripe, it is characterised by its pinkish colour.
- Ugni Blanc: This variety, which originated in Italy, is more widespread in Cognac and Armagnac, and produces well-balanced wines. It accounts for less than 2% of white Bordeaux vines.
Tough weather in 2021
We won’t go into detail here as there’s already an article on the iDealwine blog dedicated to this topic. In 2021, the weather in Bordeaux proved difficult, to say the least. It all started with a very wet winter, marred by a succession of cold spells and milder periods. As for the dry, mild spring, it was hit by severe frost on the nights of 7th and 8th April. Losses in the vineyards were substantial. With frost reappearing in May, the year looked set to be a long one… Until early June, rain poured down on the Gironde, delaying vine growth. Mid-June brought more rain, thunderstorms and hail… the full works. The damp conditions led to the development of downy mildew, a fungus that wreaked havoc in the Bordeaux vineyards. The sun finally reappeared in August, saving the struggling vines. The late season was exceptionally good, however, with botrytis cinerea, known as ‘noble rot’, developing and producing magical sweet wines. Yields were historically low as a result of the catastrophic weather conditions, with some estates producing only one to two hectolitres per hectare of Sauternes wines.
This vintage ranks as one of the most difficult in Bordeaux. It is a perfect opportunity to explore the expertise of those winemakers who were able to bounce back and make the right decisions. 2021 is ‘a winemaker’s vintage’, a reflection of everyone’s hard work to produce quality bottles characterised by freshness, elegance and balance.
The 2021 vintage: Fresh, concentrated and outstanding white wines from Bordeaux
The 2021 freshness augurs wines to be drunk young, even if the ageing potential remains good. As we said before, this is a ‘winemaker’s’ vintage, which reflects the dedication, patience, expertise and humility of those who work the land. The choices made in the vineyards have had significant consequences – both positive and negative – on the final products. Thanks to 2021, Bordeaux’s wines are being revitalised as a result of the changing yearly weather conditions. Obviously, those with the best exposure and the best terroir to withstand these hazards were at an advantage. So, now’s a great time to find out which appellations to bet on for tomorrow, bearing in mind that these weather conditions are, unfortunately, likely to become a regular occurrence in the Bordeaux region.
Château Haut-Brion, for example, produced one of its greatest white wines in 2021. Mineral, precise and light, it displays outstanding elegance. This wine can easily be cellared for fifteen years or so.
The 2021 Château Smith Haut Lafitte White was also a great success. This wine offers exceptional aromatic concentration, superb balance and beautiful acidity. An absolutely stunning wine.
Incidentally, Victor, our Trade Marketing and Events Project Manager, will be celebrating his wedding this summer with a Château Suduiraut 2021. Proof that this is an excellent vintage! This fruity, rich sweet wine is a Sauternes classic.
