The wine world loves a good quarrel, and few are as heated as the one between ‘tradition’ and ‘modernity’. Wine enthusiasts are often divided: some champion wines crafted using the latest techniques of modern oenology, while others remain steadfast in their love for vintages crafted ‘the old-fashioned way’, in strict adherence to time-honoured traditions. Barolo, one of Italy’s most revered appellations, finds itself at the heart of this ongoing quarrel.
You’ll find a fantastic selection of fine Italian wines at iDealwine, including an impressive collection of Barolos from the appellation’s top estates. For many wine lovers less familiar with this renowned Piedmontese appellation, knowing exactly what to expect from these bottles can be a challenge. What style of Nebbiolo – the emblematic grape of Piedmont – will one encounter when they pull the cork on a bottle from this highly coveted appellation? While most wine enthusiasts can distinguish between the almost Burgundian delicacy of Château Rayas and the bold, slightly untamed character of Domaine du Pegau’s Da Capo cuvée, fewer are as familiar with the differences between the wines of Giuseppe Mascarello and Giacomo Conterno compared to those of Angelo Gaja or Roberto Voerzio. The first two are traditionalists, while the latter are considered modernists. And these labels are more than just words, they represent wines with truly distinct personalities.
Barolo DOCG: Nebbiolo and the different crus
Those fortunate enough to have travelled through Italy and explored the stunning Barolo hills, just south of Turin, understand the magic of this region. These rolling landscapes, part of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato UNESCO-listed area are a patchwork of vineyards, hazelnut groves, fruit trees, and picturesque villages crowned with historic castles. The Barolo vineyards, lying at altitudes ranging between 150 and 500 metres, cover a total area of about 1,250 hectares, yielding roughly 8 million bottles annually. The one and only grape variety grown here is Nebbiolo, the star of Piedmont’s iconic wines. Interestingly, it was only introduced to the Barolo region in the mid-19th century, despite having long been the dominant variety in northern Piedmont appellations like Gattinara and Lessona.
If you were to compare Barolo to a French appellation or wine region, Burgundy, particularly the Côte de Nuits – would undoubtedly spring to mind. This is not only due to the natural characteristics of the Nebbiolo grape (the wine is lightly coloured with fine, high acidity) which, when aged, can evoke Pinot (only more tannic), but also to the tradition of recognising clearly characterised terroirs which are consistently identified in the best cuvées produced by the winemakers, even if there is no official hierarchy of premier cru and grand cru in Barolo.
Nebbiolo is a demanding and very late-ripening grape variety. To reach the required 13% alcohol content for the Barolo appellation, harvests often start in late September or early October. This extended growing period has a direct impact on winemaking practices, which we will go into later.
The appellation has two distinct soil types, which significantly influence the styles of wine produced. Broadly speaking, the western areas – Verduno, La Morra, Barolo, and Novello – are characterised by rather compact, calcareous marl soils which are cooler and more fertile, yielding wines that are relatively elegant, fruity, and aromatic that age more quickly than those of the neighbouring, opposite part. The eastern part of the appellation, including the areas of Castiglione Falletto, Monforte d’Alba, and Serralunga d’Alba, is characterised by sandstone and clay soils. These less compact, poorer, and less fertile soils produce wines that are more structured, powerful, and intense, typically ageing more slowly.
The maturation period is regulated in a way that is quite unique and very different to most French practices. By law, Barolo must be aged for at least 36 months (with a minimum of 24 months in wood and the rest in the bottle), and 60 months for the Riserva versions (with at least 36 months in wood). The release date is also regulated and the bottled wine can only be sold from 1st January of the fourth year following the harvest (or the fifth year for the Riserva version). For example, wines from the 2020 harvest could only be sold from1st January 2024 (and 2025 for the Riserva). This is just the minimum waiting period, though, many producers opt to release their wines much later, allowing for even longer ageing before being released.
See the best Barolo wines for sale on iDealwine
Vinification: The source of endless debates
If you love Pinot Noir, you’re probably aware that Burgundy winemakers have two distinct approaches to vinifying this grape variety. Some, likely leaning towards the more traditional side, aim to avoid extracting tannins and colour, creating wines that are light and delicate which some enthusiasts consider the very essence of a red Burgundy. Others, influenced by the allure of Parker’s style, opt for a more intense extraction, producing wines that are bolder and more powerful. But this petty quarrel is nothing compared to the long-standing rivalry between the two winemaking schools in Barolo! To highlight the intensity of this conflict, one family even went so far as to build a wall to divide their vineyard, effectively separating two brothers with radically different visions and beliefs on how Barolo should be made!
As we mentioned earlier, Nebbiolo is a late-ripening grape. This means that when fermentation begins in mid-October, the cellars are already cold, causing the fermentation process to start slowly. As the temperature in the cellars continues to drop, the fermentation tends to last much longer, typically two to three months. In the past, this extended fermentation period naturally led to a more intense extraction of tannins, which in turn required a long maturation in large wooden casks, often lasting at least five years or more. This process carried the risk of a rise in volatile acidity which could impact the wine’s balance and stability.
In the late 1980s, some winemakers began to explore a different path. For them, the traditional Barolo was no longer viable, they rejected the long macerations and extended ageing periods in large casks that produced wines with dry finishes that needed at least twenty years of ageing before they could be enjoyed. They believed that the tastes of wine lovers had evolved, so they sought to create wines that were rounder, easier to drink, and more fruit-forward, using modern winemaking techniques. So they focused on preserving the fruit by keeping fermentation temperatures below 28°C, shortening fermentation and maceration times, using smaller barrels instead of large casks to soften the tannins, and bottling their wines earlier. The use of tanks with rotating paddles became more common, improving extraction while reducing maceration times to under ten days. At the end of alcoholic fermentation, the cellar is heated to encourage malolactic fermentation, which helps reduce the sharp acidity traditionally found in Nebbiolo.
To appeal to the American market, producers began making Barolos with more body, woody flavours, higher alcohol levels, and even a touch of sweetness to cater to the American taste. The most iconic of these producers is Angelo Gaja, whose name has become synonymous with a truly international brand, guaranteeing seductive and universally appealing wines.
Traditionalists, while refusing to bow to the temptations of international markets, have not simply continued to produce Barolo in the same way it was made in the 1950s. The majority still rely on native yeasts to trigger fermentation, but they have shortened its duration to between twenty and thirty days. The tanks are, of course, not equipped with paddles, and the extraction process continues in a classic manner, primarily using pumping over, a technique where juice is extracted from the bottom of the vat and poured over the top, keeping the cap (grape skins, seeds) submerged with a grid. Giacomo Conterno stood as the ‘guardian of the temple’ for these traditionalists for some time. Upon his death, his two sons, Giovanni and Aldo, quickly went their separate ways due to their differing approaches to winemaking. Giovanni continued his father’s tradition, while Aldo founded the Aldo Conterno estate, which sits somewhere between tradition and the modern school of thought, a ‘revamped’ traditional method of sorts, as he claimed. Today, the children of Giovanni and Aldo have taken over their respective estates following the death of the two brothers.
The leading Barolo estates
Buy the renowned Barolo estates on iDealwine:
- Luigi Pira: Located in the iconic village of Serralunga d’Alba, this estate produces wines that strike a balance between modernity and tradition.
- Giulia Negri: When Burgundy inspires Barolo, the result is refined, elegant, and delicate wines. See for yourself!
- Roberto Voerzio: With a relatively modern style, this estate is an icon in Barolo. Small French oak barrels, early harvests, annual double green harvesting, and the exceptional concentration of the wines all contribute to this unique style.
- Angelo Gaja: Established during the 19th century, the Gaja family has made a name for itself in the Piedmont region. Their spirit of innovation has been key in building the success and reputation of the region’s wines.
- Roagna: You can acquire some bottles from the youngest of the traditionalists, Luca Roagna, who took over the family estate about fifteen years ago. He has cleverly modernised it while preserving its traditional line, with very long ageing periods for the prestigious single-vineyard cuvées made from very old vines.
- Bartolo Mascarello: Wines produced in the most traditional style, with very long ageing in large wooden tuns. Widely regarded as one of the best by discerning wine lovers, it has been run for several years by Maria Teresa Mascarello, a worthy successor to the men who came before her. The estate is also famous for one of its labels, which bore the slogan ‘No barrels, No Berlusconi’ – a statement of its commitment to traditional Barolo and, quite notably, a political statement. Bartolo Mascarello, Maria Teresa’s father, together with two other very traditional Barolo producers, Teobaldo Cappellano and Giuseppe Rinaldi, formed an informal association that they humorously called ‘The last of the Mohicans,’ to clearly signify their unwavering belief in the ‘old-fashioned’ traditions of winemaking.
- And many more, too: Fratelli Alessandria, Luciano Sandrone, Vietti…
