This domain has become known for its powerful and intensely coloured Pinot cuvées, a modern style that has drawn in fans and is quite a step away from Burgundian tradition. Since taking up the reins of the property, Arnaud Mortet has changed direction somewhat, crafting wines with more finesse and delicacy. In so doing, he has brought the domain to the heights of the Gevrey-Chambertin appellation.
Charles, grandfather to Arnaud Mortet (the domain’s current owner), created this estate in 1956, starting out with just a single hectare of vines. At the beginning, as is traditionally the case in Burgundy, he sold most of his produce via merchants. In 1978, Denis joined his father with Laurence, his wife. At the time, he was 22 years old, and she two years younger. Little by little, they built up their capacity for bottling on their own. In 1993, Denis took over from his father, thus creating Domaine Denis Mortet. The vineland expanded over time, with 4.5 hectares across Gevrey-Chambertin, Chambolle-Musigny, and Vougeot. Next to be acquired were some premiers crus, before 1999 saw their purchase of a Chambertin grand cru parcel. The domain now spans 11.2 hectares. In 2000, Arnaud has been at the domain, and has managed it for fifteen years with his mother.
At this domain, there is a great respect for the earth and the vines, the fruit is closely observed for its ideal ripeness, and there are tailor-made machines that carry out a triple sorting of the grapes once the harvest is received. In terms of what comes next, Arnaud is committed to continuing a process that preserves the identity of each climat. Vinifying the grapes begins with infusion rather than extraction. In 2008, thanks to the creation of a destemmer made especially for the domain, the producer succeeded in vinifying whole bunches whilst totally destemming! With a method like this, how could the wines not be wonderfully fruity? The juice is frequently pumped over though rarely punched down, a technique that Arnaud has reduced in order to refine the style of his wines. This is a path on which he has continued.
What do the guides say?
Bettane + Desseauve (2020 Guide) – 5 stars
“Arnaud Mortet continues the work of his father, symbol of a modern Burgundy style with ripe grapes and a carefully conceived oaky character. Arnaud has been refining the extraction and maturation processes, with wines that are flavourful and very fresh with light tannins. In 2014, two new grands crus enriched his range: 0.35 hectares of Bonnes-Mares and a parcel of Mazis-Chambertin that now bring the total surface area of the domain to 12.5 hectares, a production sought by markets across the world. This year once more, the Chambertin stunned with its magnificent profile, and it wasn’t the only one. Most of the domain’s wines are among the best of their respective climats, hence the progression to the highest score this guide can give.”