Located 200 kilometres apart, the Pouilly-Fumé and Pouilly-Fuissé appellations are often confused due to their similar names. The only thing they have in common? They both produce white wines. But now, let’s dive into their differences…
Two regions, two distinct grape varieties
Pouilly-Fumé is located in the Loire Valley, near the town of Sancerre. Here, Sauvignon Blanc reigns supreme. Pouilly-Fuissé, on the other hand, spans four villages in the Burgundy region’s Mâconnais, where the renowned Chardonnay grape thrives.
So, how can you tell the difference between these two AOCs?
Pouilly-Fumé AOC: Fine, elegant and mineral whites from the Loire Valley
Located in the commune of Pouilly-sur-Loire, in the Nièvre department, on the right bank of the Loire River, Pouilly-Fumé spans nearly 1,320 hectares of vines. Once a favourite wine of King Louis XI, Pouilly-Fumé chiefly owes its growth to the efforts of Benedictine monks. To better understand the unique characteristics of Pouilly-Fumé, let’s explore the origins of the famous fumé style.
- The Sauvignon Blanc of Pouilly-Fumé is locally known as blanc fumé.
- Once fully ripe, the grapes are covered in a greyish bloom, a waxy coating on the skin which contains natural yeasts. This bloom has the colour of smoke, and at harvest time, a light grey mist seems to hover over the vineyards.
- On top of this, Pouilly-Fumé wines display subtle smoky (fumé in French) aromas… associated with the famous flinty taste. These qualities are largely attributed to the terroirs that make up the AOC, including three key soil types: Kimmeridgian marls (typical to those of Chablis and Chavignol near Sancerre), flint, and the ‘Cris’ terroirs, which are rich in limestone.
One of the most renowned producers of this appellation was Didier Dagueneau, an undisputed master of great Sauvignon Blancs. Although he passed away in 2008, his son, Louis-Benjamin, continues the family legacy, producing wines that are pure, mineral, and marked by sharp acidity. However, the wines have been reclassified as Vin de France for several years now.
Today, other estates are stepping up to the Pouilly-Fumé tradition, such as Michel Redde & Fils and their outstanding long-ageing whites, as illustrated by their Barre à Mine cuvée. The grapes for this wine come from a former flint quarry where dynamite was used to extract the stone, and it expresses a distinctive character, both mineral and spiced. Being matured in large oak casks and demi-muids (600-litre barrels) for 14 to 16 months on fine lees offers it exceptional ageing potential.
Another stand-out producer of Pouilly-Fumé is Jonathan Didier Pabiot, known for creating vibrant, dynamic wines with minimal additives. His cuvée Elisa is a prime example, offering a stunning purity that is hard to beat. Finally, be sure to look up Domaine du Bouchot – a partner estate run by the inimitable Antoine Gouffier.
Pouilly-Fuissé AOC: Round fine white wines from Mâconnais
While the Pouilly-Fuissé AOC may not be as renowned as its Loire neighbour, it also produces exceptional white wines from nearly 760 hectares of vines in the heart of Mâconnais in the south of Burgundy. Here, as is typical in much of Burgundy, Chardonnay takes centre stage. The appellation covers four villages: Solutré-Pouilly, Vergisson, Chaintré and Fuissé. The diversity of the soils is extraordinary, with granite providing softness to the wine, while limestone, such as that found in La Roche de Solutré, imparts finesse and minerality.
Pouilly-Fuissé enjoys a special status, often referred to as the ‘King of Mâconnais’, as it is the only Burgundy appellation not produced in the Côte d’Or to be represented at the Hospices de Beaune.
In September 2020, this royal status was affirmed with the validation of the ‘premier cru’ designation by the French National Institute of Origin and Quality. Pouilly-Fuissé is therefore the only appellation in Mâconnais that can claim this prestigious status. The 2020 vintage marks the first year in which nearly 22 climats (specific vineyard sites) placed this coveted indication on their labels.
Several renowned names stand out in this appellation: Domaine Valette, a veritable benchmark, produces a range of wines across its eight hectares, including its Pouilly-Fuissé, the epitome of balance between minerality and roundness. Domaine J.A. Ferret is known for creating wines that can age beautifully, such as its Tournant de Pouilly and Les Ménétrières. Domaine Robert Denogent, a small estate of just five hectares spread across Fuissé and Solutré-Pouilly, produces wines like Les Cras, a tribute to vines that are more than 80 years old. Finally, Bret Brothers, a high-end wine merchant known for its exacting standards when it comes to sourcing grapes.
Two different wine styles: Are you Fuissé or Fumé?
Pouilly-Fumé generally tends to be lighter in alcohol and exhibits greater freshness (higher acidity) than its Burgundy counterpart, Pouilly-Fuissé, which has more body and power. Both appellations share the same predominantly continental climate, though Burgundy enjoys slightly warmer temperatures, which can explain the fuller, more robust profile of Pouilly-Fuissé wines. Additionally, the distinct character of each grape variety plays a role. A classic Pouilly-Fumé will often reveal aromas of green apples, wet stone, and smoky notes. In contrast, a typical Pouilly-Fuissé will present more fruit-forward characteristics, such as stone fruits or ripe tropical fruits.
The winemaker’s approach is, of course, a key factor in shaping the wine’s profile as well. Both Pouilly-Fumé and Pouilly-Fuissé wines can be crafted to emphasise the fruit, with the aim of being enjoyed young. Or they can be produced in a more structured, full-bodied style, with some oak ageing to produce wines for cellaring.
It’s important to note that various styles exist within each appellation, so it’s difficult to provide a generic description for these two types of Pouilly.
Now that you have a better understanding of the differences between Pouilly-Fumé and Pouilly-Fuissé, you’re ready to impress at your next dinner party! All that’s left is to put your theoretical knowledge to the test with a little practice! With a little help from iDealwine’s partner producers, perhaps?
Fancy a Pouilly premier cru?
Since 2020, 22 climats (equivalent to 200 hectares) within the Pouilly-Fuissé appellation have been recognised as premier cru plots by the French National Institute of Origin and Quality. These wines adhere to more precise and stringent regulations: maximum yield of 56 hl/ha (compared to 60 hl/ha for the ‘villages’ wines), longer soil resting periods, no chemical herbicides, and longer ageing processes.
Among the newly classified climats, you can find several available on iDealwine including En Servy, Au Vignerais, and Les Chevrières.
