Our rankings of a region that remains relatively underrepresented at auction, but that is increasingly talked about, thanks to its star trio. Enormous progress has been made in the quality of wines from the region and organic, biodynamic and natural viticulture have taken off. These two are fascinating regions, with native grape varieties, unique terroirs and local specialities (vin jaune for instance).
To create these rankings, we chose only the most expensive cuvée from each domain. Had we not, these lists would be monopolized by just one or two domains. This is especially the case for the regions of Jura and Savoy: domains Overnoy, Ganevat and Domaine des Miroirs would have represented the entire top 20.
|#||Highest-priced bottle||Price (inc.VAT) per bottle|
|1||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura Ja Nai Domaine des Miroirs 2011||€ 693|
|2||2 bottles of Arbois Pupillin Ploussard Adeline Houillon & Renaud Bruyère 2015||€ 395|
|3||1 bottle of Arbois Overnoy Houillon 2005||€ 365|
|4||1 magnum of Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de mon Père Jean-François Ganevat 2006||€ 231|
|5||1 bottle of Arbois cuvée Marc Grand Curoulet Jean Marc Brignot 2004||€ 219|
The Jura, an underrepresented region at auction
In volume, Jura and Savoy wines represent a fraction of wines traded at auction on iDealwine (3%), yet this shows an increase from 2% last year. Value is up from 1% to 2%. Jura wines are the most successful, making up 17 of this top 20.
Both mature vintages and recent vintages are represented, and the repartition between Arbois (7) and Côtes-du-Jura is fairly equal. White wines are the majority (12), with just a couple of oxidative wines. We have analysed vin jaunes separately (see below). Local grape varieties (Savagnin, Poulsard, Trousseau) and international (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir) are represented.
Jura’s boom driven by a handful of regional champions
Despite their lesser role in auctions, Jura wines are making their mark on the wine world thanks to a handful of top-quality domains whose wines are extremely sought after throughout the globe. The way we’ve conceived this ranking doesn’t allow us to truly grasp the phenomenon, but if we hadn’t only chosen the most expensive cuvée of each domain, this top 20 would be entirely occupied by these iconic domains, and prices wouldn’t slip to below a few hundred euros, even for the least expensive cuvée. Nevertheless, we thought it interesting to present the 20 Jura and Savoy domains that are most sought after by wine lovers. The prices in this list vary from 693€ for the most expensive bottle to 25€ for the least expensive.
The domain in first place is Domaine des Miroirs, a discrete and mysterious domain owned by Japanese producer Kenjiro Kagami, who trained with Thierry Allemand. The microscopic size of the vineyard (4.2 hectares), the output (around 7,500 bottles) and the extremely discerning work both in the vines and cellar (organic and natural) have all contributed to shooting this domain to the top tier of the region; its wines are now actively sought out throughout the world. In the past two years, we’ve seen its prices increasingly rise and this won’t be changing anytime soon…
Domain Adeline Houillon & Renaud Bruyère sits in second place. Founded in 2011, the domain is biodynamic and works without sulphites. Adeline Houillon actually used to work at domain Overnoy, a domain that has now been taken over by her brother Emmanuel. Renaud Bruyère learnt the ropes at domain Tissot. With such experience behind them, this domain was soon discovered by wine lovers. A bottle of its red Arbois Pupillin, made from local variety Poulsard, went under the hammer for €395.
The mythic domain Overnoy – probably the most well-known name in the Jura – is in third position, with a cuvée of its Arbois Pupillin 2005. This name has arguably done most to contribute to the growing renown of Jura wines, especially given its role in the organic and natural wine movement.
In fourth place is domain Ganevat, undoubtedly the second most well-known domain in the Jura. Another precursor to the great natural wines of Jura, here it is embodied by its top cuvée Les Vignes de mon Père 2006. This magnificent micro-cuvée of Savagnin “ouillé”, meaning the barrel is topped up during élevage and there is therefore no contact with oxygen, is matured for more than 10 years.
Finally, fifth place goes to a name that some wine lovers may never have heard of: Jean-Marc Brignot, a domain founded in the 2000s. A disciple of Pierre Overnoy, this producer is also part of the organic and natural movement. The domain is represented by a red wine, a blend of Poulsard and Trousseau.
The rest of our ranking has mature vintages in pride of place, especially when the wines themselves comes from lesser-known names: Côtes-du-Jura l’Etoile 1966 from Emile Bourguignon, Côtes-du-Jura Territoire de Voiteur 1959 from Domaine Clavelin, Arbois Les Anges 1987 from Henri Maire… Note also the classic signatures of the region, often known for their vin jaune, such as the Côtes-du-Jura 1991 from Jean Macle, the 1985 from Château d’Arlay and Jacques Puffeney’s Arbois Poulsard 2011.
Organic, biodynamic and natural domains
On the whole, it’s intriguing to see the extent to which organic, biodynamic and natural wines are represented in these rankings, especially at the top of the list. Just like the Beaujolais, the Jura is a sort of spiritual home for organic and natural viticulture, especially thanks to iconic producers such as Pierre Overnoy and Jean-François Ganevat, who acted as driving forces for the entire region. More than half of the wines in our list are organic, biodynamic or natural.
Rare, mature vin jaune
The most expensive Jura wine of this first semester is in fact a vin jaune: an Arbois Vin jaune 1990 from Pierre Overnoy, sold at €1,763 the bottle, or rather the “clavelin” (62cl format°). Vins jaunes are unique: these wines are produced without ullage, meaning that the barrel is not topped up during élevage, rather the wine is covered with a layer of dead yeasts, protecting it from oxidation. This “voile”, (veil) as it’s called, confers the wines their characteristic aromas. These wines thus have immense aging potential, further adding to their mystique.
Most of the wines in this ranking are therefore mature vintages, from the 1980s and 1990s, or even older such as the vin jaune Les Vignasses 1959 from Lucien Clavelin or the Château-Chalon 1969 from Cartier. The ranking includes many classic and well-loved names, such as: Jean Macle, Jacques Puffeney, Perron, Berthet-Bondet, Labet, Tissot, château d’Arlet, Rolet…
Savoy, an underestimated but promising region
Three Savoy wines have slid into this list, showing enormous qualitative progress for this region that has largely stayed in the shadows. All three are partner domains of iDealwine – which just goes to show, our team is on the same wavelength as our bidders! – : Domaine des Ardoisères, Jacques Maillet (now Domaine Marie & Florian Curtet) and Gilles Berlioz. There again, biodynamics and natural vinifications are the common denominator.30
|#||Highest-priced bottle||Price (inc.VAT) per bottle||Buying country||Buyer profile|
|1||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura Ja Nai Domaine des Miroirs 2011||693 €||Hong Kong||Private|
|2||2 bottles of Arbois Pupillin Ploussard Adeline Houillon & Renaud Bruyère 2015||395 €||Hong Kong||Private|
|3||1 bottle of Arbois Overnoy Houillon 2005||365 €||Hong Kong||Private|
|4||1 magnum of Côtes du Jura Les Vignes de mon Père Jean-François Ganevat 2006||231 €||Hong Kong||Private|
|5||1 bottle of Arbois cuvée Marc Grand Curoulet Jean Marc Brignot 2004||219 €||Japan||Private|
|6||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura l’Etoile Emile Bourguignon 1966||182 €||United Kingdom||Private|
|7||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura Territoire de Voiteur Domaine Clavelin 1959||109 €||Japan||Private|
|8||1 bottle of Arbois Les Anges Henri Maire 1987||77 €||Italy||Private|
|9||2 bottle of (s) Côtes du Jura Fleur de Marne La Bardette Labet 1999 (03/04/2019)||74 €||Denmark||Trade|
|10||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura Les Chassagnes Savagnin Ouillé Philippe Bornard 2008||73 €||Singapore||Private|
|11||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura Jean Macle 1991||69 €||France||Private|
|12||1 bottle of Côtes du Jura Château d’Arlay 1985||67 €||France||Private|
|13||2 bottles of Arbois Poulsard Jacques Puffeney 2011||64 €||Singapore||Private|
|14||3 bottles of IGP Vin des Allobroges – Cévins Quartz Ardoisières 2015||61 €||France||Private|
|15||1 bottle of Arbois Trousseau Les Grands Vergers Domaine Michel Gahier 2011||46 €||France||Private|
|16||1 double magnum of Vin de Savoie Jacques Maillet Pinot noir Sur le Terroir des vignes du Seigneur 2011||43 €||Hong Kong||Private|
|17||3 magnums of Vin de Savoie Chignin-Bergeron Les Filles Gilles Berlioz 2016||31 €||France||Private|
|18||2 magnums of Arbois Pinot noir Saint Pierre||28 €||France||Private|
|19||1 half bottle of Côtes du Jura Vin de Paille Pirou 1997||28 €||France||Private|
|20||1 magnum of Côtes du Jura Tradition Cuvée Prestige Fruitière de Voiteur 2009||25 €||France||Private|