Did you know that over 200 grape varieties are grown in France, although just 10 of them represent three-quarters of the country’s production. Let’s set out on a voyage of discovery to learn about long-forgotten varieties that can still be found in miniscule quantities in each of France’s winegrowing regions.
A quick overview of native grape varieties
Let’s start with some figures. There is an estimated total of 7,000 to 10,000 grape varieties worldwide. In France, only 250 are officially authorised by the Minister for Agriculture. With the great international varieties, this is a tendency towards the uniformisation of wine production. In France, 95% of all grapes grown come from 40 varieties. In the United States of America, only nine varietals make up 90% of all viticultural production! Italy is a significant exception to the rule, with around 750 grape varieties grown in bella Italia.
In the past, many, many more varieties were grown in France, and like Italy, every region – sometimes even sub-region (known as appellations) – had their own grapes varieties. The progressive abandonment of ‘indigenous’ varietals is essentially down to two reasons: they are often difficult to cultivate, delicate, prone to disease and they produce low yields. They are also grapes which can sometimes produce wine with coarse tannins and a rustic or extremely acidic texture. There is also the subject of appellation cahier des charges which have sometimes lacked in imagination and too often put ‘international’ grape varieties pride of place, forgetting some very interesting, historic varieties. For the past few years – sometimes in an effort to address new problems such as climate change and the rising alcohol level in French wines, and other times in an attempt to rediscover forgotten flavours – more and more winemakers have started to reintroduce these humble varietals. We take you on a tour of each region’s varieties and what they can bring to the different wines produced.
Champagne: Arbanne and Petit Meslier
Any Champagne enthusiast probably knows that three grape varieties dominate local production; Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier represent 98% of the vines in the region! In reality, seven varieties are allowed in the production of Champagne. Pinot Gris and Blanc, as well as Petit Meslier and Arbanne – two varieties specific to the Champagne region are also authorised. Arbanne (sometimes also written as Arbane) is a fruity, dry and late-ripening varietal. It has been replanted by several vignerons in the Aube, its native sub-region, as has Petit Meslier, a grape which lends freshness and vibrancy to wines. Olivier Horiot is one of the biggest ambassadors for these two varietals and even produces some rare single-varietal cuvées. You should try his Soléra Brut Nature cuvée, a Champagne made from seven varieties following the solera method, which is taken from sherry production. Also delicious is the Quattuor Blanc de Quatre Blancs from Drappier, produced from a blend of four white varieties, and Les Revenants from Etienne Calsac.
Alsace: Auxerrois
The land of multitudinous grape varieties often vinified pure, Alsace has very few ‘forgotten’ grapes. Nevertheless, one of the most lessor-known varietals is Auxerrois, which is almost always blended with Pinot Blanc in Klevner, a wine often called ‘Alsace Pinot Blanc’. It is also often blended to make the sparkling wine crémant. It comes from the Lorraine and often appears in wines from the French Mosel Valley or in the appellations Côtes de Toul and Côtes de Meuse. Its flavour profile is quite close to Pinot Blanc. And we have quite a few to choose from: Alsace Complantation and Zellenberg from Marcel Deiss and Points Cardinaux Métiss from Domaine Bott-Geyl.
Jura: Melon à Queue Rouge and Enfariné
The Jura’s most well-known varieties are of course Savagnin, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and the secondary, indigenous varieties Poulsard and Trousseau are much loved by wine enthusiasts. Very few people, however, have heard about Melon à Queue Rouge and Enfariné. It goes without saying that they are extremely rare. Melon à Queue Rouge (red-tailed melon in English) is a type of Chardonnay which produces very interesting wines, generally fruitier than a classic Chardonnay. Ganevat is the producer to go to for this grape, with the Marguerite cuvée that delights with its flavour and freshness. Enfariné is even rarer. Covered in a white skin – hence the name – it produces a light (both in colour and body), vibrant red. On the rare occasion that it crops up in a wine, it is blended with other varietals, bringing a fresh fruitiness and tension. This grape is blended by Ganevat in the Madelon cuvée.
Savoie: Persan, Chasselas, and Gringet
Savoie is a region with a rare varietal range, with no less than 23 indigenous varieties! Not all of these are still cultivated today, even if certain leading winemakers such as Michel Grisard have worked hard to reintroduce several old species. Three stand out in among this plethora of grapes: Persan (red), Chasselas and Gringet (white).
Originally from Saint-Jean-de-Maurienne, Persan is a delicate grape with low yields, which was progressively abandoned even though it produced good quality, fruity, tannic red wines which, although tough in youth, had good ageing potential. These characteristics bring it closer to Mondeuse, another local variety, with which it is often blended now as winemakers in appellations close to Chambéry begin to turn back to Persan. Here we can make way for a producer we really appreciate – Brice Omont from Domaine des Ardoisières. His Argile rouge and Cevins Améthyste cuvées are blends of Persan, Gamay and Mondeuse Noire…Delicious!
Chasselas (known as Fendant in Switzerland) is one of those rare grapes which is at once apt for eating and wine production. It is grown on the shores of Lake Geneva (Crépy, Marignan, Marin and Ripaille) and gives pleasant, light, and easy wines which are low in alcohol and should be drunk young. Domaine Domonique Lucas is a notable producer of Chasselas.
Gringet is cultivated solely in the small appellation of Ayze, to produce both still and sparkling wines. When vinified by Domaine Belluard, for instance, it produces magical wine.
Languedoc and Roussillon: Terret Blanc, Rivairenc, Lledoner Pelut, Morrastel
The Languedoc and Roussillon regions, traditional land of blending have a wide range of ‘primary’ varieties, of which the most famous make up the Grenache/Syrah/Carignan/Mourvèdre quartet. For white wines, the most widespread varieties are Grenache Blanc (and Gris in Roussillon), Clairette, Bourbelenc, Roussanne and Marsanne (and Maccabeu in Roussillon). There is also a multitude of rarer grape varieties which are sometimes used in small quantities (think salt and pepper) and very rarely as single-varietal cuvées.
The late-ripening Terret from Languedoc is very well-suited to hot climates. You can taste this in the Clos Maia cuvée, for example, a fruity, pure, elegant, and chiselled wine with wonderful aromas. Red varietals include Lledoner Pelut, Morrastel and Rivairenc. The latter is particularly important in the context of global warming as it produces fruity wines with a low alcohol content. Thierry Navarre in Saint-Chinian produces a remarkable single-varietal cuvée with it.
Lledoner Pelut is a Spanish varietal, a mutation of Grenache, spanning 700 hectares of vineyard nowadays. Vigorous and productive, it produces powerful, rich wines and is sometimes added as a minority in blended cuvées.
Morrastel, also originally from Spain, Rioja to be exact, creates a wine in colour and body, even if the tannic structure is not very intense. Its spiced aromas complement the flavours found in other varieties so is often used in blends. It’s not to be confused with Morastell (note the very slight changes in spelling) which is the Spanish name for Mourvèdre.
Provence: Tibouren
Tibouren was introduced to Provence by the Romans, and some 300 hectares have survived, for the most part in the Var department on parcels close to the Mediterranean coast. It is permitted in the appellations Côtes de Provence, Palette and Coteaux Varois in Provence. It produces pale, fine and delicate wines. While it makes up a small portion of rosé and red blends in some domains, it is the dominant variety in the wines of an excellent domain close to Toulon, Clos Cibonne. The domain’s most iconic cuvées are in fact named “Tibouren”, almost considered a brand, as any mention of a grape variety is in theory banned on a A.O.C. wine’s front label.
Bordeaux: Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère
Sometimes blinded by the dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, people often forget that Bordelais appellations can use many more grape varieties which are generally used in very small proportions with the exception being Cabernet Franc in Saint-Émilion. These forgetten varieties are Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carménère.
Petit Verdot is delicate and late-ripening. Full of colour and tannic, it is characterised by its spiced notes and adds an interesting element to any blend. This is the most widely used in blends on the Left Bank wines, along with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Examples include Château Belle-Vue, Bolaire, Château Beychevelle among many others.
Malbec, the emblematic grape of Cahors, represents only 2% of planted surfaces in Bordeaux, essentially in the Côtes de Bourg and Côtes de Blaye appellations, but also in very small amounts in Saint-Emilion, particularly at Château de Pressac, where it is called Pressac. It produces tannic, fruity and colourful wines.
Carménère covers less than 1% of planted surfaces. Fragile (it is susceptible to uneven flower fertilisation) and low-yielding, it adds spices to certain blends in the Médoc and sometimes in Saint-Emilion (for example at Château de Pressac, yes this château again!). Although it originates from the Bordeaux region, this variety is very widely-used in Chile.
South-West: Are they all forgotten?
The many – often unknown – appellations of the South-West are a fascinating part of French viticultural heritage as every one of these appellations is based on a grape variety (or several), only found there: for red, Malbec in Cahors, Tannat in Madiran, Fer Sarvadou in Marcillac, Duras, Prunelard and Braucol in Gaillac and Négrette in Fronton. For white wines, Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng (in Jurançon and Irouléguy in particular), but also Colombard, Len de Lel, Ondenc and Mauzac (particularly in Gaillac). These varieties are particularly interesting as they are at once emblematic of their appellations yet often ‘forgotten’ in our collective imagination of the French vineyard. The cuvée Punpa from Domaine Arretxea will allow you to try Petit Manseng and Gros Manseng at the same time, while you can also find Colombard in Armagnacs, such as those from Domaine de Laubade.
Loire: Pineau d’Aunis, Romorantin, Orbois (Menu Pineau) and Grolleau
The Loire Valley has a vast range of grape varieties in the region’s many appellations, from Muscadet (at its mouth) to Auvergne (its source). Four varieties spring to mind when we think about those that not many people know.
Pineau d’Aunis, once known as Chenin Noir (which, in reality, has no genetic link to Chenin) is low in alcohol and can produce light, very fruity wines with aromas of raspberry and peppery notes. Some good examples can be found in the Coteaux du Vendômois appellation.
Romorantin was introduced in 1519 under the orders of François I, who brought it from Burgundy and planted it around his royal residence in Romorantin, in the Loir-et-Cher. It produces wines which are rich in alcohol and fruity, with a pleasant level of acidity. After some years in the bottle, it develops an interesting range of aromas (citrus fruits, white flowers, honey).
Menu Pineau (sometimes known as Orbois or Arbois, no connection with the town of the same name in the Jura) comes from Touraine and most often appears as part of a blend in this region’s sparkling wines. Its low acidity balances out that of Chenin. The cuvée Le Brin de Chèvre from Clos du Tue-Boeuf is a great example.
Grolleau is the most widespread red grape in the Loire after Cabernet Franc and Gamay. It is often used to produce rosé wines. Some skilled vignerons in Touraine use it to produce lovely, deliciously light and fruity easy-drinking red wines.
Burgundy: César and Sacy
In the eyes of people around the world, Burgundy can be summed up in two grape varieties: Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Those in the know are also aware of the white grapes Aligoté, Sauvignon (in Auxerrois) and Pinot Blanc (Domaine Gouge even produces a white Nuits-Saint-Georges from the Premier Cru La Perrière appellation).
There is only one ‘forgotten’ white grape in the region – Sacy. A very productive grape which is low in alcohol and highly acidic. It is allowed in the appellations Crémant de Bourgogne and Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire. Only around 10 hectares are planted with this grape.
César is an old Burgundian variety and distant relative of the eminent Pinot Noir. Only a handful of hectares have survived the vagaries of time, and it can be found in the Irancy appellation, where it can make up up to 10% of red blends. When it is farmed well and subtly-vinified, it perfectly completes Pinot Noir, adding spice to the blends. Otherwise, it can have rather rustic tannins and slightly animal notes.
Rhone Valley: Counoise and Vaccarèse
In the northern Rhone, we drew a blank… Other than Syrah, Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier, there are no traces of forgotten grapes. In the southern Rhone, however, the opposite is true. Especially for red wines, other than the classic Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault or Carignan, there are many little-known varieties which feature, for example, in the 13 varieties allowed in Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Two are particularly fascinating!
Counoise, originally from Spain, is a late-ripening, low-alcohol grape variety which tends to give low yields. It brings a delicious fruitiness and much finesse to blends. What is more, you can also find it in Provence.
Vaccarèse produces a floral, light wine which is low in alcohol, elegant and pale in colour. In blends, it tempers the zeal of Grenache. As with Counoise, this variety is particularly interesting in the context of global warming. Both varieties are widely used by Domain Gourt de Mautens in greater proportions than allowed in the Vacqueyras appellation, hence his withdrawal from the A.O.C. some years ago.
And if this article is left you wanting to find out more about the most typical French grape varieties, have a read of our article on just that topic here.
