Often overshadowed by the more prestigious appellations of Burgundy, the Côte Chalonnaise, and more specifically Rully, has experienced a dizzying ascent in recent times, owing much to the precise, refined and delicious wines of Domaine Jacqueson. We interviewed these talented vignerons to find out more.
Pure, aromatic, juicy wines, which seamlessly convey the fruit, its texture and its aromas… it’s easy to understand the success of this domain, which stands out from its Burgundian peers for its still-accessible prices.
Rully and the World Wars
Rully had its glory days before World War 1. But the so-called ‘war to end all wars’ took with it a great number of winemakers and many more abandoned the vineyards in the aftermath. After the Second World War, however, a small glimmer of hope emerged from the darkness: Henri Jacqueson set his sights on region’s clay-limestone soils and created his domain from family-owned land. His leitmotiv? That this terroir rises from its ashes.
His son Paul, undaunted by the challenge, has been second-in-charge since the 1970s and has worked hard to further improve the quality of the wines and establish a loyal customer base.
Paul and Marie Jacqueson: the third generation
Paul passed over the reins to his daughter Marie in 2007, and then to Pierre in 2015. An excellent vintage to start out his career, we think you’ll agree. Marie Jacqueson remembers: “We hadn’t revolutionized anything because we had been lucky enough to have a father who was already producing very good wines and who was particularly pioneering at the time. The Rully appellation owes what it is today in large part to him. Year by year, however, my brother and I fine-tune several little things, for instance, we strive to be more and more precise in our choice of barrels.”
The domaine is run according to environmentally-friendly methods and hasn’t used herbicides for over 15 years; organic fertilizers are used, and the soil is tilled. For the red wines, the grapes are entirely destemmed and slowly ferment before being vatted (after 3 to 4 weeks). When alcoholic fermentation has finished, the wines is placed in barrels (of which 25% new), where it matures for one year. As for the whites, vinification and élevage are also carried out in barrels, of which 20% new. A small team of 6 employees work at the 19-hectare domain.
Now for more about the wines themselves.
“For the 2017 vintage, I would suggest waiting at least 6 months before opening the white Rully and at least 2 years for the Premiers Crus. It’s an excellent vintage, particularly for the white wines. They are still somewhat nervous, though, and need to rest some time before expressing their best. They will pair perfectly with shellfish, fish and white meats. They would also be delicious enjoyed alone at aperitif.
The 2017 red wines are already accessible and truly delicious: the Mercurey Les Vaux as well as the Rully Les Chaponnières are already drinking well and will be superb in two years’ time. The Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martin and the Rully 1er Cru Préaux are drinking well but will be at their peak in three to four years. Generally speaking, our red wines are rich and go well with meat. Or again at aperitif with some good charcuterie!”
WINES FROM DOMAIN PAUL ET MARIE JACQUESON
Bourgogne Sélection Paul & Marie Jacqueson 2015
This Chardonnay was harvested by hand, having undergone a meticulous selection process. The vinification respects the purity of the grapes’ aromas, lending it a fresh elegance, particularly when paired with delicate foods (freshwater fish, poultry, goats’ cheese). No need to wait: this wine is perfectly ready to drink.
Mercurey Les Grillots Paul & Marie Jacqueson 2016
A harmonious Rully full of fruit and personality. While it is drinking well young, some further aging will allow it to develop in complexity.
Mercurey 1er Cru Les Champs Martin Paul & Marie Jacqueson 2016
This cuvée comes from one of the finest terroirs in the Mercurey appellation. The Pinot noir used is grown on a south-facing parcel, allowing optimum sun exposure which is ideal for its ripening. It is thus powerful, concentrated and intense, with notes of fresh red fruits. It will be perfect with red meats or roast poultry. Keep it in the cellar for some years and drink within its first 15 years.
What the reviews say about Domaine Paul and Marie Jacqueson:
La Revue du Vin de France’s Guide Vert (1 star/3)
“The Jacqueson family has worked hard for the reputation of the Rully appellation, with Henri, then Paul, and now Marie and her brother Pierre. These three generations have together greatly improved the quality of the wines from this family-owned domain, consistently producing wines which are among the finest in Burgundy. They showcase rare harmony.”
bettane+desseauve (3 stars /5)
“Marie Jacqueson and her brother Pierre have followed in the family tradition, producing a range of wines which is now emblematic of the appellation.”
