Located in the mountains near Madrid, Comando G (for “Commando of Grenache”) is an estate that has demonstrated a strong ambition to produce the finest wines possible from Grenache, growing their vines biodynamically and bringing the terroirs of Sierra de Gredos back to life.
Founded in 2008 by three oenologist friends in their thirties, Marcel Isart Pinos (who has since left the project), Fernando Garcia Alonso and Daniel Jiménez-Landi; Comando G is a true hidden gem. The domain’s name is both a reference to Grenache and the Sierra de Gredos, the rugged, weathered peaks of the mountainous massif between the provinces of Ávila, Cáceres, Madrid and Toledo, where the vineyards are found. The winemakers have also joined forces with others in the region to promote the terroir of the wider Sierra de Gredos area, calling it “Garnachas de Gredos”. Championing Garnachas de Gredos means a geographic entity that goes beyond the limits of their AOC status and the individual appellations of Vinos de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon, Vinos de Madrid and Méntrida. This is significant because for four decades, the region had been pretty much abandoned by winemakers, especially as the remote location made the vineyards almost impossible to farm mechanically. The region has experienced something of a renaissance in recent years, its high-quality wines contributing to its ‘Priorat of Castille’ nickname.
The domain’s vineyards are a mix of small parcels whose combination of high altitude, freely draining soils, and a mild and humid micro-climate – for central Spain – guarantee a long growing season and a modest alcohol level in the finished wines. The vines are tended to biodynamically, yields are limited to as low as 20hl/ha on certain parcels. These vines all range in age from 50 to 80 years old and are planted on sandy soils weathered from granite, slate, and quartz. The resultant wines are startlingly fresh, expressing minerality and delicacy.
The winemaking is non-interventionist, extractions are gentle, and macerations last between 30 and 70 days. The wines are neither pumped over nor punched down; the cap is simply submerged. Fermentations are carried out by indigenous yeasts and élevage on lees in large containers. Carbonic gas is used to protect the wines.
The estate produces three vintages in the Rozas de Puerto Real area: Bruja Averia, some of the grapes from which are purchased elsewhere; Rozas Premier Cru, which is inspired by Burgundy Crus; and finally, Umbrias, made from vines that are over 60 years old and perched at an altitude of 1,000 meters. The two oenologists also produce three other cuvées from the province of Avila.
The domain Comando G has created a superb example of high-altitude Grenache, its specialty. The estate’s wines are desirable for their refinement, elegance, and freshness. The texture is very delicate, pure, and harmonious. Be aware that stock is limited, so check it out now!
The first one to try from this estate, a light wine characterised by Grenache
A delicious wine, with an explosion of red fruits!
A wine with ageing potential, it is powerful and elegant.
This wine is an exemplar of Spanish Grenache, from its smoothness to its unusual aromas.
The age of these old vines really adds to the depth of this wine.
An explosion of fruits and florals!
A wine that is both expressive on the nose and on the palate.
A wine that showcases Grenache in all its splendour.
A limited edition, this Grenache is a little gem.
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