The Japanese fascination with French wine heritage is nothing new. Since Japan’s economic boom in the 1970s, people there have developed a taste for luxury imports, symbols of refinement, elegance, and craftsmanship rooted in tradition. And so, the magic of French wine took hold, this revered nectar claiming a special place in the hearts of discerning Japanese consumers. But for some, admiration turned into vocation.
Drawn to the discipline, heritage, and artistry of French viticulture, values deeply aligned with Japanese culture, many made a bold move. Leaving everything behind to move to France, they now fully embrace the winemaker’s craft. Some have built estates from the ground up; others have revived existing ones. Here, we’re shining the spotlight on winemakers who skilfully blend cultures to craft wines of incredible precision that are as rare as they are sought-after.
This top 10 isn’t a formal ranking, but more of a curated selection of Japanese winemakers based on their growing desirability reflected in auction performance and their reputation.
What connects them is their ability to bring a fresh perspective to each French terroir, while showing deep respect for the time-honoured traditions of viticulture and winemaking practices of each region. Many learned French after arriving, a sign of the humility and dedication that not only earned them a place in the wine world but also shines through in their bottles.
10. A first glance with Kojy and Jae Hwa in Burgundy
After establishing their wine merchant business, Maison Lou Dumont, Koji and Jae Hwa acquired six hectares of vines in 2012 and founded their own estate. Their patchwork of parcels, stretching from Marsannay to Gevrey-Chambertin, is farmed using organic and biodynamic methods, a commitment that earned them organic certification in 2016. Here, horses and ploughs have replaced tilling machinery, and herbal mixtures and plant-based preparations stand in for synthetic pesticides. It’s worth noting that many Japanese-born winemakers are drawn to natural wine, seen as a mark of purity and refinement. The result here is elegant and rich wines, produced in minute quantities and near impossible to find.
9. From sake to Côte de Nuits, Domaine Kuheiji grows in Burgundy
Recognising the shared essence of sake and wine, both rooted in terroir and meticulous craftsmanship, Hirotaka Ito, under the guidance of Kuno Kuheiji, embarked on his Burgundy adventure where he founded his estate in 2017. The Japanese philosophy shines through in every aspect of the estate: vine pruning with near-monastic discipline, reduced yields in pursuit of purity, and full conversion to organic farming. Every effort is made to allow the wines to express the very essence of its terroir. For Hirotaka Ito, wine is a vessel for preserving the memory of the land, and there’s hardly a better way to describe the soul of his cuvées. From Gevrey-Chambertin to Chassagne-Montrachet, each wine strikes a balance, faithfully translating the characteristics of its soil into the glass. Above all else, the estate is devoted to the emotional moment of tasting, one of reflection and connection. The wines are elegant and refined, with an uncanny length on the palate.
8. Osamu Uchida, a different take on Bordeaux
This is another compelling blend of cultures. Osamu Uchida first arrived in Bordeaux as a wine guide before deciding to follow his own path crafting natural wine in one of France’s most tradition-bound regions. This was no small feat, but in 2015 he finally managed to secure a small plot of land in Cussac, which has since grown to three hectares, and is farmed biodynamically. What sets Uchida apart is his commitment to agroforestry, integrating trees and biodiversity into his vineyard to create a healthier, more resilient ecosystem for his vines. On his estate, he elevates Cabernet Sauvignon, while also working with Merlot, Carménère, Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris. Some of his cuvées deliberately stray from regional norms, the tannins are less assertive, and the Cabernet reveals a mineral profile with a voluptuous length. A benchmark for discovering the Médoc through a different lens.
7. A poignant story starring Rié and Hirofumi shoji (Pedres Blanques) in the Roussillon
Rié and Hirofumi Shoji have more than earned their place in this top 10. Faced with expulsion from their estate by the local prefecture due to insufficient income, the couple fought to keep doing what they do best: making wine. And not just any wine, natural wine, rooted in conviction! Working just a few hectares in the Collioure appellation, they bring out the best of Grenache in their cuvées, cultivating the grape variety almost entirely by hand, without pesticides, and vinified in whole bunches. Their wines are nothing short of juicy, fruit-forward, and disarmingly easy-to-drink, with stunning precision and finesse. And their tiny output, fewer than 10,000 bottles a year, has driven serious demand. In 2024, one of their Vin de France wines fetched €200 at auction. A real southern gem!
6. Mai and Kenji Hodgson, small-batch production in the Loire Valley
Natural wine enthusiasts to the core, Mai and Kenji Hodgson have made their home in the Loire Valley, just south of Angers. Their journey began in Canada, where their passion for wine took root. In 2009, they moved to France, where they trained under some of the region’s most respected winemakers including the legendary Mark Angeli. The latter even helped them acquire their first vines in 2010. Today, Mai and Hodgsons craft expressive Vins de France from several plots, including Rouliers and Aussigouin. Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, and Chenin take centre stage in what can best be described as pure, unadulterated fruit juice in the most elevated sense. Their approach in the winery is low-intervention to the extreme as the cuvées are left to make themselves. What you get are vibrant, extremely lively wines brimming with freshness. There’s no time like the present to discover their wines.
5. Jintaro Yura, Alsace’s rising star
A true rising talent, Jintaro Yura is attracting lots of attention in Alsace, and for good reason! After gaining experience in Burgundy, New Zealand, and Japan, Jintaro Yura arrived in Alsace in 2012. He was instantly captivated by the region’s extraordinary terroirs and stylistic diversity. He went on to work with some of the region’s top organic estates, including Josmeyer, where he learned the fundamentals of biodynamics. In 2020, with the support of Domaine Gross, he started to produce his own wines. Ever since, he has crafted cuvées with the greatest care, intention, and a sense of quiet confidence. Though not certified, his approach is deeply aligned with organic and biodynamic principles. Drawing from his Japanese heritage, Jintaro Yura embraces an intuitive, exploratory philosophy that lets him remain untethered from rigid tradition. Even the names of his wines have a poetic quality that transports us like his expressive and harmonious wines themselves: L’abeille et le papillon (literally The Bee and the Butterfly), Le silence et la résonance (Silence and Resonance), La partie et le tout (The Part and the Whole).
4. A new chapter for Jardins de la Martinière with Kaya Tsutsui in the Loire Valley
In 2018, the family-owned Japanese company Nichifutsu Shoji, already known for its strategic acquisitions of French gourmet brands, took over the historic estates of Les Jardins de la Martinière, with the goal of producing natural wines. Today, the estate is run by Kaya Tsutsui, an oenologist and nephew of the company’s founder. Guided and inspired by the visionary Hirotake Ooka (La Grande Colline), Kaya Tsutsui oversees every step of the winemaking process, from vineyard work to ageing. His lively, precise, and increasingly sought after wines are available only to a lucky few. Some even say they capture umami, that elusive fifth taste of perfect savoury balance, an unmistakable nod to Kaya Tsutsui’s cultural roots.
3. Domaine Chanterêves, a blend of rarity and dreamlike Burgundy wines by Tomoko Kuriyama
With their Corton-Charlemagne fetching €338 at auction in 2024, Domaine Chanterêves is steadily climbing into the ranks of Burgundy’s elite! The estate is the joint venture of Guillaume Bott, formerly of Simon Bize, and Tomoko Kuriyama, whose training includes time with Peter Jakob Kühn in Germany. Located in Savigny-lès-Beaune, Domaine Chanterêves is known for crafting wines that balance classic Burgundian elegance with a distinctly modern, natural edge. The vines are cultivated with care, and the winemaking maintains a deliberately low-intervention approach. The finesse of each terroir is reflected in wines of exceptional precision and delicacy. Crafted for Burgundy lovers ready to break from convention, these natural wines are nothing short of dreamlike!
2. Domaine des Miroirs by Kenjiro Kagami, a Jura benchmark
While this exclusive estate is highly renowned, only the most discerning connoisseurs have had a taste of its confidential wines, much to the envy of many. Named as a nod to its founder (kagami means mirror in Japanese and its French equivalent is “mirroir”), this tiny estate in Jura enjoys a cult following, particularly abroad with nearly 80% of its wines being exported. Yet it is on French soil that the grapes for these wines flourish. Kenjiro Kagami moved to Jura in 2010, bringing a profound respect for nature and a deep devotion to winemaking. Farmed organically, his Savagnin, and Trousseau vines yield wines that are natural, pure, and brimming with character. Ageing takes place in casks, often for as long as five years, allowing the wines time to fully evolve. In 2024, a bottle of his 2016 Mizuiro Les Saugettes fetched €1,200 at auction, making it the eighth most expensive natural wine sold that year, a testament to its rarity and reputation. For those lucky enough to taste it, it’s an unforgettable experience.
1. Kei Shiogai, Burgundy’s rising star
This is the crown jewel of our rankings, a name that consistently turns heads at auction and commands the respect of serious collectors: Kei Shiogai. In 2014, he left Japan to immerse himself in French language and culture, living with a local family before founding his estate. Words like perseverance and resolve are but a few that capture his journey. Eventually, he acquired vines in prestigious Burgundy terroirs such as Pommard and Gevrey-Chambertin. His approach is exacting, with a focus on meticulous vineyard work and slow, low-intervention vinification. His wines offer striking aromatic intensity, with tannins as present as they are silk-smooth. To speak of Kei Shiogai’s wines is to speak of rarity. At iDealwine’s 2024 auctions, his 2021 Charmes-Chambertin sold for €1,438, making it the sixth most expensive natural wine of the year. His 2020 Pommard Poisot also made waves, going under the hammer at €826. There’s no doubt that this is a winemaker who’s only just beginning to reveal his full potential.
Special mentions: We’d be remiss not to mention the gifted Mito Inoué in Auvergne, whose wines (limited to just 600 bottles a year) are among the region’s rarest treasures! And of course, Hirotake Ooka, formerly of Domaine de la Grande Colline in the Rhône Valley, known for his exceptional finesse in crafting natural wines. In 2017, he made the bold decision to sell his estate and return to Japan.
