Frédéric Panaïotis, the charismatic Cellar Master of the Champagne house Ruinart, died in a tragic deep-diving accident on Sunday 15 June. iDealwine pays tribute to him.

Dear Frédéric, Dear Fred,

The news which stunned us all so much on Monday is quite simply unfathomable… and so heartbreaking! The wine world mourns the loss of an immense professional and, for many, the friend you had become, such was the immediate warmth inspired by your cheerful personality, your natural charm and your simplicity.

As Cellar Master at Ruinart since 2007, after your brilliant tenure at Veuve Clicquot, you were more than just the iconic ambassador of the house’s style. A style you helped shape and refine, adapting it to the constraints of climate change and its acceleration in recent years. You were also, and above all else, a brilliant, passionate, and vibrant spirit. Your thirst for knowledge, understanding, and sharing seemed insatiable; your energy exceptional; your pace that of a top-level athlete.

A mentor for students

A decade of passionate wine students, led by those from Agro ParisTech, will fondly remember the Cav’IT competition, created by Paul Krug and Mathilde Magne, the most recent edition of which took place this past March. A fervent supporter of the initiative from the outset, you were the one who convinced me to accompany these brilliant, passionate students on their journey. What followed was more than a decade of captivating editions, each more exciting than the last which iDealwine was proud to support year after year, by being part of the competition jury. Each year, Maison Ruinart opens its doors wide to students from leading universities and schools across France and Europe. You never missed a single edition, and you always set the bar high! A brilliant and exacting taster, you devised a detailed tasting grid that left nothing to chance. An uncompromising attention to detail which you applied meticulously to every task you undertook with passion.

 As a graduate of the Institut National Agronomique Paris-Grignon and an oenologist from ENSA in Montpellier, you were determined that this Cav’IT day should have a scientific dimension, to help students – and the members of the jury! – to progress in their learning. Each year, alongside the tasting competition, a professional was invited to share their perspective on a topic that always helped us grow and progress. It is thanks to you and no one else that we had the opportunity to meet such brilliant minds: Professors Gérard Liger-Belair, Gabriel Lepousez and Jean Serroy, Marie Mascré (SOWINE) and Loïc Pasquet (Liber Pater). With their fascinating insights, each of them taught us how to decipher the mysteries behind bubbles, explore flavours and aromas, and approach the secrets of fine wines from an analytical, sociological or artistic perspective… Admittedly, it wasn’t always easy discussing biodynamics with you… but I loved trying! Even if your rational mind struggled, you sought to understand, regardless, remaining alert and active.

A brilliant taster

At trade fairs, and especially at the Grand Tasting organised by the Bettane+Desseauve team, you were always present at the Ruinart booth, eager to share your passion, experience and talent. Tireless, you never missed our blind tasting competitions. The iDealwine team will long remember your talents as a taster! You’d come to challenge yourself, with focus, high standards, and often a quick way of thinking that helped your mind dodge all the traps to find the right answers. Your humility and grace prompted you to decline the first prize you inevitably won, allowing others to enjoy the thrill of victory in our competitions.

Your secret? Hard graft. Your insatiable quest for precision and excellence had led you, as part of your training to identify aromas, to design two fascinating box sets in collaboration with Le Nez du Vin, which you kindly gifted to us so we could appreciate all the subtle aromas of Champagne…  One box set dedicated to white wines and one to rosé wines: an unexpected world of aromas opened up to us.

The Soul of Maison Ruinart

 Together with Frédéric Dufour, President of Ruinart since 2011, you formed a rather magical duo. Was it because you share the same first name? You seemed to enjoy playing on this happy coincidence, both signing your greeting messages with a simple and identical ‘Frédéric’. Your complicity, respect and mutual trust were palpable, reinforcing the consistency of the actions you undertook with determination at the helm of the company.

You were certainly not impervious to the artistic dimension that permeates the Ruinart approach, spearheaded by Frédéric Dufour. Quite the contrary! You invested tireless energy in explaining to Ruinart’s guests the meaning behind each year’s collaboration with an artist, masterfully presenting the original work created to illustrate the limited-edition gift box of the house’s emblematic Blanc de Blancs cuvée. You even graciously agreed to be part artist Liu Bolin’s camouflage project among the vines at the estate.

You put your scientific mind to work for the environmental cause, ardently defended by Maison Ruinart. At the height of lockdown, you proudly presented us with the innovative ‘second skin’ packaging, which now protects some of the house’s Champagne bottles, during a video conference. You were so proud of this elegant and sophisticated case, which was nine times lighter than its predecessor, allowing the house to reduce its packaging’s environmental impact by 60%. Agroforestry was another project close to your heart. And your latest creation, Brut Singulier, perfectly illustrates the care taken to adapt the style of wines to the constraints of climate change. It’s an extraordinary wine, marked with a new equilibrium, which you were so passionate about.

Having to say goodbye to you is inconceivable, Frédéric. You gave us so much, taught us so much, and tirelessly encouraged us to push the boundaries of our knowledge of wine. Your eager, benevolent gaze, ever ready to challenge us with the broadest of smiles, will be missed as much as your charismatic kindness. Everyone at iDealwine extends their deepest sympathy and sincere condolences to your loved ones, to your daughter Thelma whom you always spoke of with such pride, to Frédéric Dufour and to the team at Maison Ruinart.

Rest in peace, Frédéric, now that you have passed into the silence of the depths that fascinated you so much. Your energy, your wisdom and your legacy will live on forever in our memories and in our hearts.

Angélique

You can find more information about Ruinart in this article