Rosé is enjoying remarkable success. Global consumption has risen by 20% since 2002 (source: Terre de Vins), making it the still wine category that has weathered the downturn better than any other. France holds a unique position in the rosé world as it is the leading producer, the largest consumer, the biggest exporter by value and the largest importer by volume. Behind these figures lie two very different realities: grower rosés and rosés produced by larger companies and established brands. Provence provides an ideal case study for understanding the differences between these two types of producers, so let’s head to the Mediterranean coast.
Provence: Where growers champion terroir-driven rosés
While Provence has become a magnet for major investors and large groups, independent winegrowers have turned this trend to their advantage, championing a more terroir-driven style of rosé. These are wines made for the table, for pairing with food and, above all, they are wines that express their origin. Gone are the days of rosé drowned in ice cubes beside the swimming pool during the summer.
Étienne Portalis of Château Pradeaux in Bandol defines a terroir rosé as follows: “Unlike mass-produced rosé wines, which rely on technical winemaking in the cellar, 90% of the work for terroir rosés is accomplished in the vineyard.” Accordingly, these wines are crafted using the same practices found in some of France’s most prestigious appellations: low yields, native yeasts driving fermentation as well as rigorous grape selection. “Where red wines benefit from smaller berries to increase the skin-to-juice ratio and concentrate the tannins, for rosé I look for generous fruit pulp and very thin skins,” explains Jean-François Ott, who has always preserved the individual identity of each of his three estates: Château de Selle, Clos Mireille and Château Romassan.
Beyond the work carried out by the growers themselves, greater recognition through a hierarchy of appellations is also needed, and this is one of the objectives pursued by the CIVP (Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Provence). The first Provence wine fair opened its doors in 2023, bringing together the region’s three appellations: Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois. Each has its own distinctive identity. A Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, for example, is recognised for its freshness, vibrancy and aromatic intensity, while a rosé from Fréjus is known for its fullness. The growers, too, impart their signature style, making each cuvée truly unique.
These sought-after wines occupy a niche of their own. They are intensely individual, each with a distinct identity, to the point that they do not compete with one another. What do the following estates have in common?
- Domaine Hauvette
- Clos Cibonne
- Domaine de Terrebrune
- Domaine de la Bégude
- Château Pradeaux
- Château Simone
- Domaine Tempier
- Château de Pibarnon
- Domaine Les Terres Promises
- Domaines Ott
Provence: A pink Eldorado for major groups and celebrities
This is nothing new and goes back a long way. Back in 1998, Jean-Louis Croquet, who made his fortune in market research with TNS Sofres, invested in Château Thuerry, a 400-hectare estate in the Var, to produce rosé. Since then, a growing number of young winegrowers, known as néo-vignerons, have settled in the region, generally driven by one of two ambitions: acquiring a profitable long-term asset or pursuing a genuine passion for wine. After all, Provence rosés are among the most renowned in the world. Isabelle Maligne of Vinea Transaction estimates that around a third of Provence’s estates have changed hands over the past twenty years, while Mr Dakin of Wine Objectives suggests the figure is closer to one third of the region’s vineyard area. Is that good or bad news? Well, rising demand has undoubtedly pushed up vineyard prices, but it has also raised the profile of the appellation and helped drive quality ever higher.
Who are they?
Business leaders, luxury groups, film stars, musicians, sports personalities and more.
- The House of Chanel acquired an estate on the island of Porquerolles in 2021
- LVMH acquired Château d’Esclans in 2019 and Château du Galoupet in 2020
- Luxury watchmaker Richard Mille acquired Château Rêva in 2019
- Eric Bompard (known for cashmere clothing) acquired Domaine de la Bergerie d’Aquino in 2014
- Yan Pineau (Itancia, Telecommunications) acquired Château de l’Escarelle in 2011
- Mark Dixon (British businessman) acquired Château de Berne in 2007
- Michel Reybier (Cochonou, Aoste and Justin Bridou) and Tony Parker acquired Château La Mascaronne in 2020
- William Chase (founder of Tyrrells Crisps) acquired Domaine de la Brillane in 2017
- Stéphane Courbit, the Sarkozy family and the Prats family acquired Mas d’Estoublon in 2020 and Domaine de Cantarelle in 2023
- Pernod-Ricard acquired a majority stake in Château Sainte-Marguerite in 2022
- George Clooney acquired Domaine de Canadel in 2021
- George Lucas acquired Château Margüi in 2017
- Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie acquired Chateau de Miraval in 2011 (Jolie has since sold her share)
- Kylie Minogue acquired Château Sainte Roseline in 2022
- John Malkovich acquired Domaine Les Quelles de la Coste in 2019
- And there are many others!
Owners also include prominent figures from the wine world, such as Castel, Chapoutier, Mora, Magrez, Béjot, Aegerter and Bruno Paillard to name but a few.
So what makes the region so attractive?
There are several reasons. Vineyard land remains more affordable than in Bordeaux, for example, with even the finest Provence terroirs valued at under €100,000 per hectare, compared with well over €1 million for the leading grand crus in the Médoc. Then there is the appeal of the Côte d’Azur and its mild climate, together with the rapid return on investment offered by rosé since most bottles are still sold and enjoyed within the year, although both producers and consumers are beginning to embrace wines with greater ageing potential. Marketing also plays a significant role in the category’s success. Far from slowing after the global pandemic, the vineyards of the Var have continued to thrive. In 2020, the region recorded France’s strongest export growth. North America, for example, imports one out of every two bottles of rosé produced in France. At the same time, the region has continued its move upmarket. Investing in vineyards can also provide attractive tax advantages, allowing entrepreneurs to reinvest proceeds from the sale of a business. As for Hollywood stars, we believe the proximity of Saint-Tropez, Monaco, Cannes and its famous film festival undoubtedly adds to the appeal. That said, many rely on the guidance of highly respected wine families, as Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie did with the Perrin family at Miraval.
While the distinction between grower rosés and branded or large-scale rosés is particularly clear in Provence, the same comparison could be made elsewhere in France, starting with Champagne and its sparkling rosé wines. Olivier Horiot, for instance, has become one of the leading standard-bearers for grower Champagne, while rosé Champagnes produced by major houses such as LVMH are more representative of the second trend.
