Dom Pérignon clearly masters the art of the unexpected. On this occasion, the celebrated Champagne house chose to reveal not one but three new releases simultaneously. Hosted by Vincent Chaperon, Dom Pérignon’s Cellar Master since 2018, the event took place during a private dinner held in an art gallery tucked away in a discreet passage near the Bastille district in Paris.
For the occasion, artist Mathias Kiss, who served as the event’s artistic director, had taken over a pared-back minimalist space beneath the glass roof of a former workshop. The three-Michelin-starred chef Emmanuel Pilon had travelled from Monaco, where he is chef at Louis XV – Alain Ducasse in the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo. The gastronomic experience was designed so each successive course revealed a different facet of the three cuvées unveiled that evening. The cuisine reflected the influence of nearby Italy, just across the border from the Monte Carlo palace, with vegetables contributing appealing bitter notes with subtle spices. Contrasts in texture played a central role, combining the crunch of vegetables with the voluptuousness of silky emulsions, each element carefully interacting with the different expressions of the wines. The chef was not afraid to incorporate a few unexpected ingredients, casting new light on the many facets of these exceptional wines. Have you ever tasted bread ice cream alongside a glass of Dom Pérignon? A surprising pairing, to say the least.
2017 Dom Pérignon stands out for its intensely saline, mineral profile and mouthwatering freshness. A cutting, lively Champagne built on contrasts, combining notes of candied citrus zest with delicate floral nuances and great precision. Remarkably long on the palate, it displays a delicate texture and great elegance.
The cuvée was born of a warm growing season marked by several intense weather events. The result is a 2017 of striking intensity and energy that nevertheless retains a remarkable sense of freshness and balance. This is the final vintage crafted by Richard Geoffroy, the house’s iconic Cellar Master from 1990 until he handed over to Vincent Chaperon.
Dom Pérignon 2008 Vintage Plénitude 2, by contrast, conveyed the impression of a fully realised Champagne, generous and enveloping, unfolding across the palate with fine bitters interwoven with indulgent notes of white fruit and cocoa. The finish is lifted by bright acidity and delicate, airy floral notes. The overall impression is one of a tactile, intense Champagne brimming with energy.
The cuvée captures the essence of the vintage from which it originates with remarkable grace. In Champagne, 2008 is regarded as a blessed year, when the elements aligned almost perfectly to guide the grapes towards a luminous, finely judged ripeness. The second Plénitude brings an additional dimension of complexity and persistence to this exceptionally distinguished Champagne.
Dom Pérignon Rosé 2010 Vintage, the favourite wine of the evening, revealed a velvety texture of remarkable finesse. Its silky attack unfolds with expressive flavours of red berries and almond, lifted by delicate peppery hints and carried by an exceptionally fine mousse. The overall impression is one of persistence, balance and elegance.
And yet, the 2010 vintage was far from straightforward for the House’s teams. Following a year marked by unprecedented cool conditions, the harvest was disrupted by a rainy spell that unfortunately provided ideal conditions for botrytis to develop. Rigorous sorting was therefore essential, with only pristine berries retained for the blend alongside fully ripened Chardonnay. The result is a rare cuvée, defined by harmony, depth and emotion.
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