Loire whites are all the rage
The white wines of the Loire, particularly its Chenin Blancs, are in high demand. It must be said that this great grape variety originating from the region is scarcely found in other French vineyards – all roads lead to the Loire for Chenin! – and that it has numerous assets: versatility (it produces excellent dry, semi-sweet, sweet, or even sparkling wines), organoleptic balance (beautiful acidity, elegance, sapidity with many fruity and floral aromas), and great ageing potential.
The beautiful Chenin variety has long stood out at auctions and particularly during the month of November. This is for example the case for the 2022 Noëls de Montbenault by Richard Leroy, one of the most renowned terroirs in the region, vinified by one of the greatest natural winemakers (we visited him in November). The bottle was auctioned for €271 (+6%), a fine performance for such a young vintage. From Domaine du Collier (the estate owned by Antoine Foucault and Caroline Boireau), a well-structured 2016 Saumur La Charpentrie sold for €275 (+83%). Meanwhile Clos Rougeard was represented by white wines, which although generally do not reach the prices of its reds, they are still highly sought after. A bottle of its 2015 Saumur Brézé soared to €263 (+31%). The inexhaustible appeal of Bernaudeau’s star wine Les Nourrissons, from the 2009 vintage, reached €203.
When it comes to the new wave of natural wine producers, Helicon’s 2020 Frénésie reached €132 (+32%), Benoît Lalanne’s wine from the beautiful terroir of Noëls de Montbenault reached €175 (+12%) in its 2023 vintage; and the 2017 Vin de France Poiesis from Clos des Plantes (Olivier Lejeune) was bought for €119 (+9%). Stéphane Rocher’s estate Ferme du Mont Benault saw its 2020 Les Cailloux de Mont Benault sell for €125 (+33%).
Furthermore, in its sweet version, the Chenin Blancs also shine! This is the case, for example, of the wine La Quintessence de Lumière des Bonnes Blanches by Josette Medau et Pierre Weyand. The 2005 vintage in a 500ml bottle reached €451. It must be said that this collector’s estate is none other than the successors of the legendary Eric Callcutt estate which is no longer in operation. The iconic wines produced in the 1990s, which are extremely rare, are in high demand today. Today, the vines that helped produce them belong to Stéphane Bernaudeau.
The Sauvignon Blancs from Sancerre are also highly regarded. For example, the 2015 Sancerre Clos la Neore by Edmond Vatan sold for €288 (+10%) and the 2000 Pouilly-Fumé Buisson Renard by Dagueneau went for €225 (+59%).
Finally, some Chardonnays from the Loire Valley also stand out. This is the case, for example, for the 2023 Alchimie Passionnelle from Nicolas Barbou, which sold for €163. This appeal isn’t really surprising when you consider that this organic and natural wine grower trained by Jean-Yves Bizot owns a microscopic vineyard of two hectares.
The sweet wines from Bordeaux and other regions also stand out
Beyond the sweet wines from the Loire, those from Bordeaux are also very popular at the end of the year as the festive season approaches. A magnum of the king of Sauternes, 2001 Château d’Yquem sold for €1,578 (+22%), while a bottle from 2015 reached €510 (+21%). Still in Bordeaux, the 1989 Crème de Tête from Suduiraut went under the hammer at €275 (+13%) and the 1961 Crème de Tête Grande Réserve from Château Gilette also went for €275 (+14%) and the 1975 Château de Fargues was auctioned for €250 (+62%). These amber nectars are particularly prized after several decades of ageing.
Finally, other regions also produce great sweet wines that are particularly sought after, such as the historic Clos Joliette in Jurançon, whose 1978 mature vintage obtained €238. Back in the Loire, the sweet wine from La Coulée de Serrant, from the 1995 vintage was sold for €138 (+16%) and from Hungary, the 2008 Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos from Istvan Szepsy was auctioned for €138 (+47%).
